Reproducing laboratory-scale rip currents on a barred beach by a boussinesq wave model

Ke-Zhao Fang (Lead / Corresponding author), Ji-Wei Yin, Zhi-Li Zou, Zhong-Bo Liu, P. Dong

    Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

    1 Citation (Scopus)

    Abstract

    The pioneering work of Haller [8] on physically investigating bathymetry-controlled rip currents in the laboratory is a standard benchmark test for verifying numerical nearshore circulation models. In this paper, a numerical model based on higher-order Boussinesq equations was developed to reproduce the number of experiments involved in such an investigation, with emphasis on the effect of computational domain size on the numerical results. A set of Boussinesq equations with optimum linear properties and second-order full nonlinearity were solved using a higher-order finite difference scheme. Wave breaking, moving shoreline, bottom friction, and mixing were all treated empirically. The developed model was first run to simulate the rip current under full spatial and time-domain conditions. The computed mean quantities, including wave height, mean water level, and mean current, were compared with the experimental data and favorable agreements were found. The effects of computational domain size on the computation results were then investigated by conducting numerical experiments. The Willmott index was introduced to evaluate the agreements between the computed results and data. Inter-comparisons between the computation results and measurements demonstrated that the computational domain size significantly influenced the numerical results. Thus, running a Boussinesq wave model under full spatial and time-domain conditions is recommended to reproduce Haller's experiment.
    Original languageEnglish
    Pages (from-to)231-239
    Number of pages9
    JournalJournal of Marine Science and Technology
    Volume22
    Issue number2
    DOIs
    Publication statusPublished - 2014

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    rip current
    Beaches
    Boussinesq equation
    beach
    Bathymetry
    bottom friction
    experiment
    wave breaking
    Experiments
    wave height
    Water levels
    bathymetry
    nonlinearity
    Numerical models
    shoreline
    water level
    Friction
    laboratory
    effect

    Cite this

    Fang, Ke-Zhao ; Yin, Ji-Wei ; Zou, Zhi-Li ; Liu, Zhong-Bo ; Dong, P. / Reproducing laboratory-scale rip currents on a barred beach by a boussinesq wave model. In: Journal of Marine Science and Technology. 2014 ; Vol. 22, No. 2. pp. 231-239.
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    abstract = "The pioneering work of Haller [8] on physically investigating bathymetry-controlled rip currents in the laboratory is a standard benchmark test for verifying numerical nearshore circulation models. In this paper, a numerical model based on higher-order Boussinesq equations was developed to reproduce the number of experiments involved in such an investigation, with emphasis on the effect of computational domain size on the numerical results. A set of Boussinesq equations with optimum linear properties and second-order full nonlinearity were solved using a higher-order finite difference scheme. Wave breaking, moving shoreline, bottom friction, and mixing were all treated empirically. The developed model was first run to simulate the rip current under full spatial and time-domain conditions. The computed mean quantities, including wave height, mean water level, and mean current, were compared with the experimental data and favorable agreements were found. The effects of computational domain size on the computation results were then investigated by conducting numerical experiments. The Willmott index was introduced to evaluate the agreements between the computed results and data. Inter-comparisons between the computation results and measurements demonstrated that the computational domain size significantly influenced the numerical results. Thus, running a Boussinesq wave model under full spatial and time-domain conditions is recommended to reproduce Haller's experiment.",
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    Reproducing laboratory-scale rip currents on a barred beach by a boussinesq wave model. / Fang, Ke-Zhao (Lead / Corresponding author); Yin, Ji-Wei; Zou, Zhi-Li; Liu, Zhong-Bo; Dong, P.

    In: Journal of Marine Science and Technology, Vol. 22, No. 2, 2014, p. 231-239.

    Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

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